
There is something quietly satisfying about a loaf of bread cooling on the kitchen windowsill, especially when it is made from nothing more than flour, yeast, salt and water. Wholemeal bread has a reputation for being heavy and dense, but that is usually a matter of technique rather than the flour itself. Get the water right, give the dough time, and you will be rewarded with a nutty, substantial loaf with a proper crust and a soft, close crumb that slices beautifully for toast.
Wholemeal flour contains the entire grain, including the bran and the wheatgerm. That bran is full of goodness and flavour, but it also acts a little like tiny shards of glass, slicing through the gluten strands as they try to develop. The result is a dough that rises more slowly and feels less elastic than one made with white flour.
The fix is simple: add more water and allow more time. Wholemeal flour absorbs noticeably more liquid than white, so a dough that looks sticky at first is usually just right. Be patient with it and it will reward you.
If you are new to baking, a good starting point is a blend. Using 400g wholemeal and 100g strong white flour gives you all the flavour of wholemeal with a much lighter, more forgiving loaf. Once you are confident, push the wholemeal up to 100 per cent.
For one large 900g loaf:
You will also want a large mixing bowl, a 900g loaf tin lined with baking parchment, a clean tea towel, and a cooling rack. A dough scraper is a help but not essential — a blunt table knife does the job.
Tip the flour into your bowl, add the yeast to one side and the salt to the other. Keeping them apart at this stage matters, as concentrated salt can slow the yeast down. Stir everything together with your hand or a wooden spoon.
Pour in 350ml of the warm water, along with the oil and honey if you are using them, and bring it together into a rough, shaggy mass. Wholemeal will look alarmingly sticky at this point. Resist the urge to add flour. Instead, cover the bowl with a tea towel and leave it for 20 minutes. This short rest lets the flour hydrate fully and makes the dough far easier to handle.
After the rest, check the texture. It should feel tacky but not wet enough to cling to your fingers. If it is stiff and dry, add the remaining water a tablespoon at a time.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly oiled worktop — oil rather than flour, which wholemeal dough tends to absorb greedily. Knead for 10 to 12 minutes using the heel of your hand: push the dough away, fold it back over itself, give it a quarter turn, and repeat.
The dough will be ready when it feels smooth, springs back slowly when pressed, and can be stretched thin enough to see light through it. With all-wholemeal flour this windowpane may never be perfectly translucent, so do not chase it indefinitely.
Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and leave it somewhere warm and draught-free for 1½ to 2 hours, until roughly doubled in size. Wholemeal takes longer than white, so judge by the dough rather than the clock. A cool kitchen will add an hour; a warm airing cupboard will shave one off.
Turn the risen dough onto your worktop and press it flat to knock out the large air bubbles. Shape it into a tight roll — fold the sides in, then roll it up like a Swiss roll and pinch the seam — and place it seam-side down in the lined tin.
Cover with the tea towel and leave to prove for 45 to 60 minutes, until the dough has risen to just above the rim of the tin. If you press it gently with a fingertip, the indentation should spring back slowly and only partway.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan, gas 7), placing a shelf in the middle and an empty roasting tin on the bottom. When the loaf is ready, dust the top lightly with flour and slash a shallow line down the middle with a sharp knife.
Slide the loaf into the oven and pour a cup of water into the hot roasting tin below to create steam. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes. The loaf is done when it is dark golden, sounds hollow when tapped on the base, and reads 95°C on a probe thermometer. If the top is browning too fast, lay a sheet of foil loosely over it.
Turn the loaf out of the tin and cool it on a rack for at least an hour before slicing. Cutting hot bread tears the crumb and lets the steam escape, leaving a gummy centre.
Wholemeal bread keeps well for two or three days in a paper bag or a bread bin, and it freezes beautifully. Slice it first, then freeze the slices flat so you can take out exactly what you need for the toaster. Once you have made it a few times, you will find the whole process takes less than twenty minutes of actual work — and the smell alone is worth the wait.
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